Panerai Luminor for sale in NYC

Built for the Italian navy

Panerai began in Florence in 1860 and spent decades supplying instruments to the Italian navy. The Luminor name comes from a tritium-based luminous material the company patented in 1949. In the 1950s Panerai added its patented crown protecting bridge, the lever that presses the crown against its seal, and that bridge still defines the Luminor case. The brand reached the public in 1993 and joined the Vendome group, now Richemont, in 1997.

The Luminor families

The Luminor Marina adds a small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock to the basic time display. PAM 00111 is the classic 44mm hand-wound Luminor Marina, and PAM 00312 is the 44mm Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic with date and the calibre P.9000. Newer references start with 01, for example PAM 01312, the updated version of the 312 with the calibre P.9010. The Luminor 1950 case has a more rounded profile than the straighter base Luminor. The Luminor Due, launched in 2016, is a thinner line in 38mm, 42mm and 45mm. Luminor GMT models add a second time zone hand, often with a power reserve display.

What to look for

Check the crown lever: it should lock firmly and release with a clean click. Look for scratches on the case sides from strap changes. Know the movement generation: early modern Luminors use calibres based on ETA and Valjoux base movements, while Panerai's in-house P. calibres arrived in 2005 and now power most models. Sandwich dials, with lume set between two layers, should glow evenly. Panerai straps are easy to swap, so many watches arrive on aftermarket straps; ask whether the original strap and buckle are included. Match the serial number on the caseback to the papers.

See it in person

Prices are listed on every watch. Call or text for a viewing by appointment in the Diamond District in Midtown Manhattan, and compare the case sizes on your own wrist.