Chanel J12 for sale in NYC

Ceramic, 2000

Chanel launched the J12 in 2000, designed by Jacques Helleu, the house's longtime artistic director. It was one of the first luxury watches made almost entirely of high-tech ceramic, and the glossy black case and bracelet looked unlike anything else at the time. A white version followed in 2003. Inspired by the lines of J-class racing yachts, the J12 became Chanel's signature watch and one of the few fashion house watches taken seriously by collectors.

Sizes and references

The original J12 came in 33mm, mostly quartz, and 38mm, mostly automatic, with larger sizes on some later models. Common references include the H0685, the black 38mm automatic, and the H0970, the white 38mm automatic. In 2019 Chanel redesigned the watch under Arnaud Chastaingt, changing most of its components while keeping the look. The new 38mm models, such as the H5697 in black and the H5700 in white, use the Calibre 12.1, a COSC chronometer with about 70 hours of power reserve, seen through a sapphire caseback. The 33mm models use quartz or the Calibre 12.2. The J12 Paradoxe splits the case between black and white ceramic.

What to look for

Ceramic resists scratches but can chip or crack if it hits a hard surface. Check the bezel edges, the lugs and every bracelet link. Turn the bezel: it should rotate cleanly. Bracelet links are ceramic and are sized with Chanel parts, so ask how many extra links come with the watch. Confirm whether diamond markers or a diamond bezel were set by Chanel. Aftermarket diamond work appears on the J12, and any custom piece on our site is marked as custom. On older white models, look for discoloration in the gaps between links. Match the serial number on the caseback to the papers.

Try one on

Prices are listed on every watch. Call or text for a viewing by appointment in the Diamond District in Midtown Manhattan.